San Felipe is home the largest cardon cactus in Baja.

I’ve always framed San Felipe as my gateway to Baja.

The fishing town known for fresh shrimp sits on the Sea of Cortez just over 100 miles from the U.S.-Mexico border. Along the malecon, or boardwalk, there are all sorts of great mariscos spots. I recommend ordering a Mexican-style shrimp cocktail, chock full of shrimp, on- ions, tomatoes and avocado. Perfect for a light lunch.

San Felipe is also home to the vaquita: a cute, small, somewhat stocky dolphin with very distinct lips that look like lipstick. It is the rarest marine mammal in the world – only found in the northern part of the Gulf of California – and a critically endangered species. Reports in March said there may be as few as 10 left, which really bums me out.

Pride in the vaquita, a small dolphin, can be seen in beautiful murals in San Felipe.

The vaquita have never been hunted directly. They have fallen victim to illegal gillnets intended for the totoaba, another large, critically endangered fish. There is a fierce trade for the totoaba swim bladder in China. It is considered a delicacy, thought to have medicinal value for men, which has greatly escalated the problem. The Sea Shepherd Conservation Society and Mexican Navy are working to patrol the area by night, which has escalated tension with local fishermen.

Pride in the vaquita is seen from all angles in San Felipe. There are beautiful murals, and locals speak fondly of the dolphin. The best restaurant in town is named La Vaquita. Every time I come, I order the steamed clams for an appetizer.

Often, I can swim and dig up clams with my hands close to the shore. But there’s even more to discover if you dig deeper into the town of San Felipe. Here are my top picks in the September 2019 issue of DESERT magazine.

WHERE TO EAT

SABORES MEXICO: Try this cute and quaint restaurant for Mexican breakfast. The chilaquiles are solid as are los huevos a la mexicana (scrambled eggs, tomatoes, onions and jalapeños).

MARISCOS BRENDA: This is a traditional seafood lunch on the boardwalk, or malecon as it’s called in coastal towns.

LA CABANA RESTAURANT: This spot serves traditional Mexican meals and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

BIRRIA LOS POBLANOS: Driving by, I feel obliged to stop at this place, which is packed with locals. The barrio (think braised beef in broth for breakfast) is a must try.

SAN FELIPE BREWING CO.: About 10 minutes north of town, this spot serves good craft beers along with mainly seafood appetizers. They are open from 2 to 8 p.m. Drive a bit past the pub to see miles and miles of salt flats.

Want to know where to stay and what to do? Read more by heading over to DESERT magazine, part of the USA Today Network.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

When preparing for a trip to Mexico, you need car insurance with coverage south of the border. I use Baja Bound. Insurance runs about $20 per day, and it is quick and easy to set up online. Make sure you print your policy out and put it in your glove box. Get a policy at bajabound.com.